Snow from Tibet

This week protesters have stood in support of Tibet and Tibetans at the Olympic Torch Relays in London, Paris, San Francisco and will stand again in Buenos Aires on Friday.

When I woke up Sunday morning (April 6th), for the first time all year, there was several inches of snow on the ground! It was like waking up in the Himalayas of Dharamsala or the plateaus of Tibet. It was a beautiful scene and it felt like the snow Gods of Tibet were watching over the UK that day. It continued to snow on my 3 hour bus journey to London and off and on throughout the protest. I arrived at the 3rd of the protest meeting points along the torch relay route. It was a very large and active demonstration, probably 2000-3000 people at the point I saw. As I stood there chanting with the crowds slogans of "Free Tibet", "China Out" and booing as the Olympic sponsors like Coca-Cola drove by, I also watched several people jump the security fence and be taken down by the police. As the torch came closer, the crowd grew louder, the police more nervous and the tension was high. It was impossible to see the runner, only the top of the flame go by because there were so many of the 'blue men' or Chinese paramilitary running around the torch as well as the police surrounding it on all sides. It was only when I stood up on a wall that I could see the expanse of the crowd. It was an endless sea of of Tibetan flags, banners, and signs with messages of 'Free Tibet', 'Stop the Killing', 'Save Burma', etc. And an endless sea of police trying to keep the peace. But in the end over 30 people were arrested.


It was striking to see the diversity of people standing together for Tibet. There were families who held signs together. A father with his young daughter stood on a high wall and chanted together, even when the crowd stopped. Teenagers wore hand-painted T-shirts and had painted there faces with the Tibetan flag. Couples held each other with the Tibetan flag wrapped around the shoulders to stay warm. A group of Buddhists sat on the steps to a building in silent meditation. And while everyone was chanting in English, you could hear different languages throughout the crowd.

Later at the rally, several politicians from the British government, an actress, musicians and Free Tibet organizers spoke in support of Tibet. The Tibetan Freedom torch was lit and will follow the official Olympic torch on it's course around the world. I hope that the protests continue and that they continue to gain the attention of the media, governments and citizens around the world. But I also hope that it continues to be peaceful.

I'm not a professional photographer, but here is the link to all the photos I took in London: http://www.flickr.com/photos/94801434@N00/sets/72157604459296337/

Peace to you, your families and for Tibet!

Save Tibet

In the last week my family and I have been receiving emails from the Tibetan monks and lay people we met, taught and became good friends with last November/December in Dharamsala, India.

I thought I would share some of their communications (anonymously) for people who are interested and want to hear more of the Tibetan perspective and voice in response to the recent violence in Tibet. They are eager to share their message with the outside world, and I am happy to help in any way I can.

______________________________________

Date March 15th

Here we are very busy at the moment. We are regarding this year a right or unique year for Tibetans living both inside and outside of Tibet. It is because this year Olympic is going to take place in China. Therefore, since the 49th uprising day of Tibetans, which was held on the 10th of this month, we are witnessing big protest going in every country where we have Tibetans living in it.

In particular, this time since this 10th March many protest are going in many part of Tibet, which we are seeing from our news mediums and specially from BBC, CNN and other renowned TV channells. These broad casting brings courage and confidence in the hearts of Tibetans to organize further activities. In Tibet, one of my monk friend also took part in protest and he tried to attempt suicide. He is badly injured and now he is in hospital under chinese arrest.

All in all every Tibetans are regarding these on going events as a door for a big change for Tibet and Tibetans and also for other small countries which are under chinese rule like our Tibet.Here in Dharamsala, we are organizing protest, hunger strike and candle light march almost everyday. I am also sincerely taking part in these moves. All the Tibetans taking part in this on going protest against china in both inside and out side of Tibet, we are demanding freedom for our national and return of His Holiness the Dalai Lama into Tibet.

This protest will go on until the end of the up coming Olympic in China. With this i am requesting you and your close ones to stand for Tibet and take part in Tibetan protest against China going inside your country.

Thanking you!

One Dream, One World, Free Tibet! And Long Live HHDL.

With a big request, Your Friend.

______________________________________________

Written in response to the above email by my father:

To: My Excellent and Wise Student,

We are listening to the news each day and are very sad to hear about the problems in Tibet and in Dharamsala. I have a sign on the back of my car that says, "Support Tibet." We think of all of you and of all of your families and friends. We hope you are all well and that you stay healthy.

However, - - you know, that China is a very powerful country and there will be no immediate change in how they recognize Tibet. The things that you and all Tibetans do to make the world aware of the injustice is good. Everyone must know and remember the injustice. We should never forget and we should not let China lie to the world. The things that you do to keep the world aware are important and will result in change - - someday, - - but NOT today!

You are wise and you know that change will NOT be soon. Many people and many countries support Tibet, but you must know that no one will rise up in support of Tibet against China - - today. Many people in China are also very unhappy about the injustice, - - but they too will not rise up - - today.

As you and your friends help us remember, please, do not do anything foolish. I was a soldier and I fought in a war in Viet Nam. I learned that it is too easy for people to die for an idea. Many foolish people and many cowards can do that. It is much more difficult to learn how to live for an idea and to make it grow. I believe this is the wisdom of His Holiness the Dalai Lama as well! The MOST IMPORTANT THINGS that you and other Tibetans do for Tibet are to WORK, LEARN and TEACH. It takes more wisdom and more courage to work for an idea in the long term than to die for an idea today.

Tibet is so very important! It must live and survive and be a part of a better understanding of all people in the world. But, Tibet IS NOT earth, mountains, buildings, and borders. Tibet is a people with a language and a history and a philosophy that is unique and valuable to the whole world. You say to me "Free Tibet." I ask you to free yourself from small ideas that tie Tibet to a place and to borders that China has violated. Tibet is not a place. Tibet is a people. Tibet is not a problem to be corrected. Tibet is a possibility of peace and love.

For Tibet to survive, Tibetans must be engaged in the world to help us all learn about whom we are and who we can become. For Tibet to survive, it must be as a people with a culture that is compelling and shared. For Tibet to survive, it may not be as a place, even if that beautiful place is sometime recovered in the future for Tibetans. For Tibet to survive, it will be because the beautiful wise people of Tibet see beyond the impermanence of place to possibilities for their people. As you help us all remember the Tibet of the past and the injustice of China, I urge you and your friends to stay focused on the Tibet of the future. We must all WORK and LEARN and TEACH. Tibet is so much more than a place. Tibet is an idea that we must celebrate and bring to the world. Please, help us all focus on this future.

I thank you for bringing Tibetan culture to my life. Your changes & growth can help us achieve "one world."

With regard, your teacher and your student

____________________________________________

Date: March 19th

Hello fd

this is what happening in my mathre land in Tibet.

Recent urgent Tibetan public peace protest against China in Amdo Ngawa on the 16th and 17th Morning of March, 2008

1) In this big protest whole of Amdo Ngawa rose up against china, which includes, Kirti monastery, Gomang monastery, Segon monastery, Mami nunnery, Suwa monastery, Tsen-Nyi Monastery Trotsik monastery, Adue monastery, Dogay monastery, Togden monastery, Dongri monastery and public of Amdo Ngawa, upper Ngawa, lower Ngawa, Trotsik and other left parts of Ngawa, Meruma,Chojyama, Charuwa and other nomadic areas and the Secondary Tibetan School of Amdo Ngawa. All in all around 13000 Tibetans took part in this big Tibetan public peace protest.

2) So far we have known around 20 death casualties including monks, nuns, students and laymen killed in this big protest. Our other sources states around 40 Tibetans got killed. Large number of Tibetans went lost in the protest and their whereabouts are still not known. The some known protesters who sacrificed their lives in the protest are: lhundup tso9student), Atisha(age 23), tsezin(age 33), Tashi(age 23), Gejyam, Lobtse.

3) Many were put behind the bars and when the Tibetans went to demand for their release from the prison, Chinese authorities didn’t listen to them and in return Tibetans turned violent and started breaking the premises of the police custody. Likewise, few other Chinese offices were destroyed by Tibetan protesters.

4) This recent peace protest in Amdo Ngawa, becomes one of the largest peace protest took place in Tibet excluding the protest in Lhasa. It becomes the largest number of Tibetan people took part in the peace protest and one of the biggest peace protest against China in which largest number of Tibetans got killed by the brutal Chinese policemen and the troops.Following slogans are of the recent peace protest taken place in Amdo Ngawa:

a) Long live Dalai Lama

b) Free Tibet

c) Stop torturing in Tibet

d) Release the Tibetan political prisoners

e) Release Panchen Lama

The three main reasons responsible for the outburst of this recent big public peace protest in Amdo Ngawa are:
Firstly, Tibetans have strong wish to see their spiritual and temporal
leader, His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama. Secondly, Chinese government has
been always keeping silence about the peaceful dialogue between Tibet and
China. Thirdly, Chinese government is continuously applying harsh mechanisms
to control the Tibetans inside Tibet.

_____________________________________________

Date: March 19th 2008

its the time is very bad as from in the Tibet can start up to need freedom .so chine's police killed lots of the tibetan people .this is very much suffer . in the tibetan people told that we will get peace of the freedom and also democracies . if you want to look it the situation . you watching the BBC NEWS and also you search in the BBC ok i hope you now more than me

____________________________________________

Date: March 19th, 2008

ya.... more than 100 people were died in tibet and here in india.. total 80
people were arrested by the indian police and nepal so much voilence there.

____________________________________________

Date: March 18th, 2008

My resepct teacher i have some bad news. Did you see in B.B.C? Tibetans were protested Chinese everywhere in Tibet frome 10th of March until now. Many Tibetans were killed by Chinese. Yesterday i saw in T.V some dead bodies of Tibetan. That was very terrible. I am deeply sad and worried for my poor country and my family. I don't know anything my family's situation. I don't call to my family if the Chinese know whose are relationship with Tibetan from India they are must arrest. I am only know my uncle was arrested by Chinese he lives in Lhasa. Now i am realized i have no country and home i don't know what i have to do actually i want to go back in Tibet now it is became very diffuclt. Teacher please you give me imformetiom what i have to do. How are you and what are you doing now? Do you still in England? Take care beyyy

Making Tsampa

Tsampa, roasted barley flour, is one of the staple foods in a Tibetan diet. It is eaten several times a day in Tibet usually with butter tea and/or meat. While barley isn't a traditional food in India, the Tibetans continue their tradition by growing and roasting it. The family we rented an apartment from roasts their own, to ensure a pure rock-free quality. Here are a few pictures from their rooftop roasting operation:

The barley grain is put in a wok of sand. The hot sand becomes the roaster!

After a few minutes of heating the sand, the barley needs to be mixed in order to roast all of it. It sounds a little like popcorn popping.

After the barley is roasted, the sand is sifted out and reused to roast the next batch. The roasted barley then needs to be cleaned (de-shafted) and taken to a mill to be ground. It is a labor intensive process, but an absolute necessity for many of the Tibetans living in Dharamsala.

Visiting Nobalinka

The Dalai Lama's summer home is on the roof of the temple.

A few weeks ago, my one-on-one student invited me to Norbalinka. It is located about 1 hour from McLeod Ganj by a jeep, bus and taxi combo. In India, Norbalinka is a cultural preservation center and houses many Tibetan artists workshops. It is also the Dalai Lama’s summer home, when he has the time to come home in the summer. Similarly, in Tibet, the Dalai Lama used to spend his summers at Norbalinka. The Indian version has been built as a replica. The Indian version is made up of beautiful gardens, streams and ponds. At the center is the temple and summer home. Luckily, my student has a friend who works in the Tibetan history research office at Norbalinka. He was able to leave his office for awhile and show us the different artists’ workshops as well as take us up into the Dalai Lama’s apartment-his office, his living quarters and even his bathroom! Pretty nice bathroom too! He has a western toilet, and there was even a shower curtain on the tub-the first one I’ve seen in India!

Standing outside the Dalai Lama's living quarters

After visiting the artists shops we went to his friend’s house for lunch of Tibetan noodle soup. After taking a post-lunch rest, we headed to the Karmapa’s Monastery down the road. The Karmapa Lama is probably the second most important lama in Tibetan Buddhism. He came from China less than 10 years ago and is heavily politicized because the Chinese also recognize him as an important lama. Unfortunately, the Karmapa Lama was out of town, but we were able to see the monastery and its grounds.

The Guyto Monastery, home of the Karmapa Lama

On the way back up the hill to McLeod Ganj, we stopped at the Tibetan Library which is housed on the grounds of the Tibetan Government in Exile. The library houses many old Tibetan texts as well as an English library on Tibetan Buddhism. It also houses a small museum of cultural relics refugees were able to bring from Tibet. Another one of my student’s friends showed us around.

Riding in style!

It has been interesting and eye-opening to live among one of the largest Tibetan refugee communities in the world for several weeks. I’ve heard many stories of people sneaking across the Himalayas trying to avoid the Chinese guards to have a chance at an education, to be able to study Buddhism freely and to see the Dalai Lama in person. They leave behind family, friends, relationships and often leave knowing they will never be able to return. Many of the more recent arrivals, young students seeking an education, hope to one day return either legally by obtaining permission from the Chinese government, or illegally, by crossing the mountains again. Yet, even through all their hardships and struggles, they are some of the most genuinely kind and compassionate people I’ve spent time with. I can see why it is easy to become a believer in Buddhism, the people I’ve met here, really do practice what they preach. And it has been an honor to spend time with them and learn more about their religion as well as their lives.

This afternoon I found myself sitting in a one room apartment furnished with two beds, a gas can for cooking, a few books, and a few photos of the Dalai Lama. The shared bathroom and cold shower is down the hall. My one-on-one student who invited me there, doesn't actually live in this room, he just stays here because he doesn't have a place of his own. He cooked and served me a huge bowl of thukpa, Tibetan noodle soup, and turned to me, smiled and said, "This is the life of a refugee."

Becoming Tibetan

There isn't much time for writing these days...lesson prep, one-on-one lessons, drinking tea with students, eating out, studying Tibetan, and planning for the next leg of the journey. But several weeks ago, our good friend and my mom's one-on-one student, invited us over for "fashion day". She dressed us up in her chupas, or Tibetan dresses. They are so comfortable and I think they are very attractive looking--of course not so attractive on foreigners. But the Tibetan women look so classy around town in their dresses with their multi- colored aprons. Tibetan traditions says only married women can wear the aprons. But for one day... I was allowed the honor! Perhaps there is a Tibetan guy out there for me? One that can throat sing, perhaps?

A Tibetan Thanksgiving in India

Boom Boom and Me in front of the lyrics for Johnny Appleseed

We couldn't let Thanksgiving go by without celebrating it in some way. Being that 4 of the current Tibet Charity teachers are American, we decided to have a little party for all the students. All the teachers made announcements in their classes and we coordinated with the cook and staff and asked them to prepare tea for about 50 people. My family ordered 4 pans of the best American brownies in town from Jimmy's Italian Restaurant. And the other American teacher was supposed to bring fruit. Unfortunately, there was a death in town on the day of Thanksgiving and in remembrance, all the shops and fruit stalls were shut down for the entire day. Not able to find ANY fruit in town, she bought 50 juice boxes! Similarly, all the photocopy centers were closed. I spent the afternoon running around, finally finding a copy center and made copies of a song called "Thank Someone", a Thanksgiving word search, and Thanksgiving bingo cards. At 3:30 we filled the main hall to capacity. It was standing room only!! We didn't do an official count, but there were probably over 70 people there! What a success! After my dad gave a brief explanation of Thanksgiving, we sang a few rounds of "Johnny Appleseed", taught them "Thank Someone", gave prizes to the top 10 who finished the word search, and played a round of Bingo with Thanksgiving words! It was a success and everyone seemed to really enjoy it!! At the end all the teachers served the students brownies and tea! I'm not sure any of them had eaten a brownie before, but there were NONE left at the end of the party!! It was lots of fun to share the spirit of Thanksgiving with the wonderful people we have met here at Tibet Charity. They are all so giving, friendly, and compassionate that I'm happy we were able to say "Thank you!"

Here are a few pictures from the event:

Students singing "Thank Someone" at the Thanksgiving Party

About 70 students attended our American Thanksgiving Day party. We weren't able to feed them a traditional Thanksgiving meal, but we did sing songs, play games, and serve brownies and milk tea.

Some of the super eager students!

After our party at Tibet Charity, the English teachers headed to Lhamo's Restaurant for a set Thanksgiving Dinner. They served pumpkin soup, spinach salad, mashed potato momos, vegetable momos, carrot or lemon cake and tea. It was a delicious meal and a delightful evening with colleagues.

Lhasa to Kathmandu via The Friendship Hwy

People often ask why it is called "The Friendship Hwy". The simple reason we came up with--if you weren't friends before the trip, you'll be friends after the trip. It is a long, bumpy, harrowing journey aross Tibet, down the Bhote Khosi river gorge and into Nepal. To top it off, we added a side trip to Everest Base Camp, another several hours of some of the world's worst roads at over 4000m. It was a 5 day adventure in a land cruiser I hope never to repeat. I'm glad I did it, but I don't think I would choose to make the trip overland from Tibet to Nepal again. At least not until the road is significantly improved. And in this part of the world...that may not be possible. The road, after it drops off the Tibetan plateau, descends very quickly following the river on a narrow, steep, muddy or rocky road that barely allows one lane of traffic let alone two. This is the major trade route as well as a very popular Land Cruiser overland route. Hence, the traffic is pretty steady and constant from both directions regardless of the road condition.

It all started by putting up little hand-written posters around Lhasa at some of the more popular hotels. JP and I were looking for two others to join our Land Cruiser trip to the border via all the popular stops and possibly Everest Base Camp. Our first response was from a couple from Portland, so we booked the trip and laughed at the odds of meeting someone from the same city/state in Tibet! We probably got 10 more emails of people looking to do the same thing...that's how popular this route is!

We left a few days later with a two Land Cruiser entourage, 2 Australian guys, 2 German girls, 4 Americans, 1 Tibetan 'guide' and 2 Tibetan drivers. The word 'guide' is used loosely because he barely spoke English, couldn't explain much of anything at the places we stopped and was pretty much useless. But he did handle the permit and paperwork for getting us through the checkpoints. And he did intervene when our driver threatened another driver with his sword and then almost ran him over (that story is better told in person). So, I guess he was worth the seat in the vehicle, even if he had horrible taste in music--Bryan Adams!

Each day was long and ardous--hours in the car listening to either driver's choice or plugging in an iPod connection. We stopped everyday at a town/city along the way that had an interesting monastery or temple to keep us occupied for the afternoon/evening. We also found the best Chinese food was in Tibet. We ate huge meals of sauteed vegetables, chicken and peanuts, pork, beef, and tofu dishes. The trip highlight was making it to Everest Base Camp. The real Chinese government base camp is 3km up the road, but we stayed at the tourist base camp with equally good views of Mt. Everest. The mountain was on show for us both days we were there. But as we packed up and drove out of base camp on the second morning, she clouded over and couldn't be seen at all. Our guide said that only 1 in 3 people that visit base camp actually get to see her. And he has spent 3 consecutive days at base camp and never seen even a glimpse. So we considered ourselves very lucky! We stayed in a place called Dhingrui Friendship Hotel. It was 40 yuan a night, regulated by the Chinese government. And only 4 people are allowed to stay in each hotel each night, the government officials come by every night to check and collect our money. But the hotel owners were Tibetan and very very sweet. It was a father daughter team. They kept our tea cups full and at night they tucked us in with many extra blankets and covers to keep us warm. We also ate our meals there, which while very simple were decent considering everything has to be broughtup. There must have been 40-50 similar guest houses--each run by Tibetans, but regulated by the Chinese. The tension is thick everywhere you go. The checkpoint guards hassel the Tibetan guides and drivers, the Tibetan hotel owners in turn build extra big speed bumps for the Chinese officials when they come to town. It is impossible to miss the obvious hatred the Tibetans feel for the Chinese, our guide and driver were constantly making comments...and don't forget there was that incident with the sword too.

I made it to Everest Base Camp (4800m)

Well, this quick little update about the Lhasa-Kathmandu journey has taken me almost 3 hours to write up and upload. So, the Annapurna journey is coming, but slowly slowly. Or as the guides liked to say 'no hurry, chicken curry'.

More from Lhasa

Accute Mountain Syndrome--you never know who it will strike!

Barkhor Square: The Potala Palace is in the upper right corner

A view from the river running through Lhasa

The Potala Kora (pilgrim walk)

I love Lhasa!

We arrived in Lhasa! Look--it's the Potala Palace!!

An artist recreates the palace from the best view point!

Yummy--yak butter! The yak butter tea isn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be!

A view from the train! This is approaching 5000m!

The Banak Shol Hotel! We are traveling 'budget'. Our room is $3/night! And we have a pet rat in the toilets! But the restaurant is fabulous--the best in town!

Too Many Ghosts in China

I'm not talking abou the kind that say 'boo' on Halloween. I'm talking about the kind that lurk in the far corners of your mind. That remind you of stories you care not to remember. That rehash tales that have been told and played out but not fully resolved. China has too many of these ghosts for me. I see them in the corners of alleys. I smell them coming from the street stalls. I hear them in the endless banter of the people on the streets. And it haunts me. And I'm looking forward to escaping the oppression of the past, my past.

Tonight I will board a train to Tibet.