Visiting Nobalinka

The Dalai Lama's summer home is on the roof of the temple.

A few weeks ago, my one-on-one student invited me to Norbalinka. It is located about 1 hour from McLeod Ganj by a jeep, bus and taxi combo. In India, Norbalinka is a cultural preservation center and houses many Tibetan artists workshops. It is also the Dalai Lama’s summer home, when he has the time to come home in the summer. Similarly, in Tibet, the Dalai Lama used to spend his summers at Norbalinka. The Indian version has been built as a replica. The Indian version is made up of beautiful gardens, streams and ponds. At the center is the temple and summer home. Luckily, my student has a friend who works in the Tibetan history research office at Norbalinka. He was able to leave his office for awhile and show us the different artists’ workshops as well as take us up into the Dalai Lama’s apartment-his office, his living quarters and even his bathroom! Pretty nice bathroom too! He has a western toilet, and there was even a shower curtain on the tub-the first one I’ve seen in India!

Standing outside the Dalai Lama's living quarters

After visiting the artists shops we went to his friend’s house for lunch of Tibetan noodle soup. After taking a post-lunch rest, we headed to the Karmapa’s Monastery down the road. The Karmapa Lama is probably the second most important lama in Tibetan Buddhism. He came from China less than 10 years ago and is heavily politicized because the Chinese also recognize him as an important lama. Unfortunately, the Karmapa Lama was out of town, but we were able to see the monastery and its grounds.

The Guyto Monastery, home of the Karmapa Lama

On the way back up the hill to McLeod Ganj, we stopped at the Tibetan Library which is housed on the grounds of the Tibetan Government in Exile. The library houses many old Tibetan texts as well as an English library on Tibetan Buddhism. It also houses a small museum of cultural relics refugees were able to bring from Tibet. Another one of my student’s friends showed us around.

Riding in style!

It has been interesting and eye-opening to live among one of the largest Tibetan refugee communities in the world for several weeks. I’ve heard many stories of people sneaking across the Himalayas trying to avoid the Chinese guards to have a chance at an education, to be able to study Buddhism freely and to see the Dalai Lama in person. They leave behind family, friends, relationships and often leave knowing they will never be able to return. Many of the more recent arrivals, young students seeking an education, hope to one day return either legally by obtaining permission from the Chinese government, or illegally, by crossing the mountains again. Yet, even through all their hardships and struggles, they are some of the most genuinely kind and compassionate people I’ve spent time with. I can see why it is easy to become a believer in Buddhism, the people I’ve met here, really do practice what they preach. And it has been an honor to spend time with them and learn more about their religion as well as their lives.

This afternoon I found myself sitting in a one room apartment furnished with two beds, a gas can for cooking, a few books, and a few photos of the Dalai Lama. The shared bathroom and cold shower is down the hall. My one-on-one student who invited me there, doesn't actually live in this room, he just stays here because he doesn't have a place of his own. He cooked and served me a huge bowl of thukpa, Tibetan noodle soup, and turned to me, smiled and said, "This is the life of a refugee."