Annapurna Base Camp Day #1

ABC Day 1 (Oct. 8) Birethanti (1025m) - Khimrong Khola (1780m)

16km

7:15am to 4:30pm

The dynamics have changed! We waved good-bye to JP yesterday and rode off with Gyanu in a taxi to the bus stand. So now it is 3 women and our guide. We decided to travel to the start point in the late afternoon so we could sleep there and start on the trail early. The guidebook recommends taking the bus in the AM and starting the trail mid-day. But given the heat at the low altitude…and after having the circuit behind us, we knew better than to start late in the day.

Our porridge was served at 6:30am and we hit the trail about 7:15. We signed back into the Annapurna Conservation books and headed up the hill. The night at the Moonlight Hotel was uneventful except for some coughing fits in the middle of the night. We now sleep in a triple so my coughing wakes up 2, not 1. But without the husband around anymore we got to have some good girl gossip time…well needed after 18 days on the circuit! J

The morning walk started out hot but pretty flat. Then we hit a section of stairs-UP UP UP! And for lunch we made it to Ghandruk. I has stayed there 4 years ago when I did the Poon Hill circuit. It is a big town with lots of hotels. Our guide book suggests it as the first days stop. But since we had gotten an early start, we were there by 11:30am, much too early for stopping. Although never too early for eating! This is officially the International ABC Dal Bhat Tour. We are eating porridge for breakfast, and dal bhat for lunch and dinner!! It doesn’t get much better than that!

Gyanu taught us a new card game while we were waiting for lunch. It is pretty easy and a fun game—a good one to remember and teach other people. I gotta get the name of it again (Dunbull).

It has changed everything having a guide with us! I think it is motivating us so far. We were going pretty hard this morning. But we did stop for tea twice today! Great! The PM stop was another ‘get out of the rain’ stop! It was perfect timing too cause it started POURING as soon as we sat down and ordered tea. We drank more mint tea and played more cards! Then the decision was made to go DOWN to the next town. This trail has much more UP & DOWN then the circuit which was mostly UP and after we crossed the pass was all DOWN. So that means tomorrow morning we will have a long UP climb to get out of the valley…but better to push on now incase we need to slow down later.

A view of Machupuchre (Fish Tail) from the trail.

My left knee is starting to hurt again. Maybe I’ll never make it out at all. They might have to leave me in here to fend for myself. But we are ahead of schedule and ahead of the guide book, which is always good! Especially since the guidebook seems to give suggestions for days that are totally unreasonable.

Everyone else we met on the trail today 1) had guides & PORTERS and 2) didn’t make it this far! We aren’t walking fast, but seeing as we just finished an 18 day trek on the circuit, we are doing well! This town has 1 hotel and we are the only ones here. We are getting in just before the real trekking season starts! Time for a cold cold shower and dal bhat!

Annapurna Circuit Day #17

Day 17 (Oct. 4) Tatopani (1200m) - Ghorepani (2870m)

15km

6:50am to 3:15pm

The view from our rooftop restaurant in Tatopani!

Exhausted! Today was UP UP UP! And I woke up super congested. The cold has moved to my lungs and turned into a cough. Surprise surprise. It always moves south. That made today extra hard. I tried to focus on my breathing and keeping it controlled so I wouldn’t have a coughing fit. It mostly worked but when I stopped I would start coughing a bit. It’s not horrible but it slowed me down a lot. I was mostly last all day. E slowed down again towards the end of the day, but JP and A were super speedy. I don’t know why but we skipped lunch today. We stopped at about 10:30 and got corn bread with honey and tea. And then we just didn’t stop again! I ate a snickers to get me up the last few hours to Ghorepani. A & E also chowed one. No idea what JP did to make it up.

Today’s ascent was mostly stair climbing. That is both good and bad. In some ways it is easier than climbing steep dirt tracks. Once you get into a groove and find your rhythm climbing endless hours of stairs isn’t too bad. BUT after a few hours it feels like your legs just won’t go anymore. Today was also the first day we walked without knowing anyone on the trail. We have no friends to keep us going. And no friends to stop and rest with. No guides to tell us where to eat or stay. We said good-bye to most of our friends yesterday. They moved on and we took an extra rest day in Tatopani—low altitude town with hot springs and great food! So today we were out of our element and we made the mistake of pushing on without a real meal. Stupid!! Our breakfast at the Old Kamala Hotel was at 6:15am—oat porridge with apple. It’s the best, but it isn’t meant to last all day, especially on a day we are ascending 1670m.

Eating a lot of food on our rest day in Tatopani: cinnamon rolls, coffee, chocolate cake, apple pie and carrot cake. And that was just our post-breakfast dessert!

We said good-bye to T & C this morning at breakfast. They are taking the hike out option from Tatopani. We took the UP UP UP option to the Ghorepani/Poon Hill view point before we walk out. A little crazy—yes! But we weren’t ready to be done yet either. Even with all the pain and exhaustion…it feels good! It is addicting. And I don’t want it to end. I want to keep going.

Hopefully we will run into T & C, the Spaniards, their guides, and our Israeli friends in Pokhara. It would be fun to do a big dinner, maybe at the Everest Steak House, to celebrate finishing the circuit. Depending on what we decide tomorrow, it would be our last day. In which case we would arrive in Pokhara the same day as the Spaniards…so that is one motivation to walk out tomorrow. Even though my feet are killing me and my back hurts, I kind of want to extend this out as long as possible. Let’s see how the group feels!

The view of our walk up to Ghorepani!

It is nice to be up high again—good views and cool temps. We are staying at The Sunny Hotel. Currently, I am sitting in the dining hall overlooking Dhaulgiri, one of the big Himalayan mountains. But it has a lot of clouds covering most of it, so it is hard to see it very clearly. Hopefully the morning view from Poon Hill will be clear and we will be able to see all the mountains we missed on most of the trek because of all the rain and snow!

On the way into town we met a Japanese couple. They seemed nice and it was fun to practice a little nihongo with them. I miss speaking and hearing Japanese all the time. I want to practice it more…I need to find more Japanese tourists to make friends with.

This morning at breakfast I got a bad back spasm. JP gave me a back massage and tried to work it out at our snack stop, but it is still really tight. I need more!

We just at our umpteenth dal bhat meal. We chowed down dinner after not eating lunch. We ate a pre-dessert and a post-dessert. We ordered two pieces of apple pie before dinner because we were so hungry. And JP ran out to get Nepali snacks before dinner. The best thing about dal bhat is they keep bringing more until you are sufficiently full. We ate our fill and then ordered more dessert, but after JP went to bed! Ha ha ha! We ate chocolate pudding with apple AND rice pudding after dinner. Delicious!!

The worst part of this hotel…besides the hordes of Chinese tourists with large cameras, are the Western toilets. They suck for having to take a shit. It is so hard to try and hover over the toilet bowl without touching the seat and try to push it all out. I want a squat toilet! It falls out much more naturally.

Tomorrow is up at 4:30 and off to Poon Hill (300m ascent) for a spectacular view! Yahoo! Time for bed!

We made it to Poon Hill, but the view was mediocre at best. I also got a bad bout of AMS because of my cold and almost fainted. But we got some pictures of the mountains, it was the start of our last day on the trek!

Annapurna Circuit Day #11

Day 11 (Sept 28)

High Camp (4800m) - Thorung La Pass (5416m) - Muktinath (3800m)

14km

5:15am to 9am to 3:30pm

I was so exhausted when we arrived in Muktinath I barely had enough energy to shower and eat dinner (pizza at Bob Marley Hotel). So, I’m writing this on the 29^th after a good nights sleep. Yesterday was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done in my life. The ascent to the pass was miserable. I couldn’t breathe at all. I was gasping and it was so slow going. Plus it had continued snowing the night before and at high camp the trail was covered with about 8inn of new snow.

We woke up at 3:45am and went into the dining hall to confer with others about whether to go or not. Our two favorite guides, Lama and Gyanu, were set on leaving as was T & C’s porter. Other porters and guides were saying that if we waited a day it might be too dangerous so we should go over today or we might get stuck on this side. With all that said and with only mild headaches, we packed up our stuff, put on all our layers and ate our porridge with apple.

For the climb to the pass, I wore almost all the layers I owned. I had 3 layers on my legs: silk long underwear, my quick dry fake Lowe Alpine trekking pants, and my rain paints. On top I wore my two semi-quick dry shirts (long and short sleeve), and my black windproof pullover plus my orange fake windstopper Mamut jacket and my raincoat. It kept me mostly warm and dry. But after 10 hours of snow and rain, we were all a little wet. And even at lower altitude, it continues to pour!

After eating our porridge we were on the trail by 5:15am. The experienced guides went in front to find and make the trail since it was covered in snow. About 20-25 of us set out at the same time. It looked like a big mountain expedition…and we kinda were. Going up to 5416m is no small task. And perhaps sleeping (or laying awake all night) at High Camp wasn’t very wise but it saved us an hour of intense steep climbing. I’m glad we did it the day before and not the morning of the pass. We had enough to think about getting over the trail as it was.

The trail to the pass wasn’t that steep, but with all the snow it was difficult and slippery in places. Plus we had to ascend 600m or about 2,000ft—significant altitude gain when the oxygen is already thin.

Actually, within the first 30 minutes I thought I might have to turn back. I couldn’t catch my breath at all. And I got a side cramp. Gyanu, one of our favorite guides, was super kind and agreed to walk last to make sure we made it up. I’m not sure why he agreed to stay with us but he did. His client, one of the Spanish guys, was at the front of the line making the trail with his ice climbing boots!! So, when I was having problems breathing he waited for me and let others pass. It didn’t take long before I was the last in line. But soon A & E dropped back too. JP was in a groove with a group closer to the front and seemed to be doing well there.

After the mid-point tea break, we didn’t see JP again until the top. And the three of us were struggling to keep the others in sight. A started feeling really sick. I’m not sure if it was the Diamox or AMS, but she lost feeling in her legs. And she tasted blood in her mouth probably from a bloody nose, but we weren’t sure. She was struggling and we were all getting a little scared. Gyanu took her bag and carried it on top of his pack of similar size and weight, doubling the amount he was carrying. But she instantly started to feel better. He also gave her pure glucose which really helped her. It was a lifesaver. But she still didn’t feel good and we were wondering if we should keep going. Luckily, a couple passed that had a GPS unit. They told her it was only another 100m to the top. Therefore, it was much wiser to keep climbing, get over the pass and start descending immediately. The town on the other side (1600m descent) was low enough that AMS symptoms should go away. That gave her and all of us the confidence to get to the top!

A tea break at the top with our Spanish friend, Pablo.

We made it to the top at 9am. I started crying. I was so happy to be up there but I felt horrible for putting all my friends through that. I gave A & E a big hug. It was so frickn’ cold and windy up there we couldn’t stand outside long. But we stood outside long enough to take our bags off and go inside the tea house for a celebratory snickers. But at that altitude I had to force it down. We shared one cup of milk tea for 90 rps. And then we ran outside to take a photo before loading back up and starting the descent.

I’m not sure which was worse for me…the ascent or the descent. Actually, going up was harder because I couldn’t breath. But going down was hard because at first the snow was really deep. And as we started descending, it stopped snowing, but it turned into pouring rain. And it went on for hours and hours. We left the pass after freezing ourselves while attempting some photos at 9:30am. We walked down and down and down. I think a little after 1pm we arrived at a tiny town with a few little restaurants. We ordered mint tea (E’s stomach wasn’t feeling good) and ate our chapattis and boiled eggs we pre-ordered at High Camp. I’m not sure which was worse: walking in the rain and staying mildly warm or resting and letting the wet and cold seep in. Anyway, we needed the break. Only 1-2 hours to Muktinath. But it was the longest 2 hours ever. I think we arrived close to 4pm and it was still raining.

The walk down--cold, wet and exhausted!

As we walked into town we passed the famous Hindu pilgrimage site, the Muktinath Temple Complex. It is famous for its holy spring water that pours out of the earth. Hindus from all over India and the world visit it every year. The poor ones walk in with minimal supplies, sleeping by the side of the road/trail and cooking their meals over a fire. The rich ones fly to Pokhara and then hire a helicopter to fly them into Muktinath. There are two helipads within a few meters of the temple entrance so the wealthy don’t have to strain themselves too much.

After walking passed the temple and into town, we found a few hotels. We decided against the Bob Marley hotel and stayed next door at the Mona Lisa. We got a dorm room with 4 beds for 80 rps, or was it 120 rps? They had a REAL hot shower—it was amazing after the day we had had. They didn’t request we eat all our meals there so we went to the Rasta Restaurant to meet all our Israeli friends. We should have known better, because the general rule on the trail is you eat wherever you sleep. But we were hoping that in this bigger town, we might be exempt from that. Apparently not. After a lovely dinner of pizza, calzones, coke, a heated table, JPs celebratory cigar and apple pie with chocolate pudding, we returned to the Mona Lisa, and a very angry owner. JP dealt with it very politely but sternly.

So after a VERY long day, we were trying to be social and celebratory with our friends but we were really too exhausted to do either. We left the restaurant and returned to be yelled at. We were all in bed well before 8pm totally exhausted. We exchanged some shoulder massages before climbing into our sleeping bags. I think my shoulders hurt worse after the pass than any other day. I think the impact of the downhill slope plus my big pack was too hard on them. Ouch! But JP gave us all a good steamroll before we fell asleep. Nothing like a good steamroll before bed!

Annapurna Circuit Day # 10

Day 10 (Sept. 27) Letdar (4200m) - High Camp (4850m)

7km

8am to 2:30pm

I’m sitting in the dining hall at High Camp with my feet under a heated table drinking hot chocolate. And it is snowing outside. You can’t see anything beyond the few buildings that make up the camp. And it is COLD.

The dining hall is packed with people trying to stay warm and stay out of the snow. We are also all trying to decide if we should attempt the pass tomorrow or wait another day. All of us are braving the extra 100+m altitude gain in the hopes of saving 1-2 hours in getting to the pass in the morning. The last hour to High Camp was hellish—straight up on switch backs in the snow. But I’d rather do it in the afternoon with the light of the sun than at 4am with my headlamp.

Last night in our little guest house in Letdar, we sat around a yak shit stove to warm up. All the guides joined us around the fire and we talked about Nepali ethnic groups and how they can tell each other apart. We stayed at the same guest house as the Spanish guys. Their guides are really funny and super cute! We have been following them since the 2^nd day. They give us lots of great advice about where to go or where to stay. But their Maya Hotel recommendation in Lower Pisang was totally off the mark. The older guide, “Lama” is full of life, is always making jokes and wears a coat that says “HELP” on the back of it. The younger one (still don’t know his name) is a little more quiet and serious but very friendly.

The yak shit warmed us for awhile but then it died down and we got super cold and went to our sleeping bags to warm up. Last night was really chilly and I woke up gasping for air a few times. Amy reported it like I was snorting for air, but I’m sure it was much more dignified than that. Whether you are sleeping, eating, sitting, or walking with an overloaded pack…it is very hard to breath at this altitude.

A & J both had headaches when we arrived so we all took a Diamox—the anti-altitude sickness wonder drug. It is supposed to last 12 hours. So, if the symptoms don’t go away by the time we wake up to depart in the morning, we will know to stay another day or go back down to Thorong Phedi and acclimatize another day. The perfect scenario: we all feel great in the AM and clear sunny skies. Wishful thinking?

Oh shit…the Diamox is starting to set in. My teeth are tingling. And I feel like I’m sinking into the bench. Ugh!! These side effects are worse than altitude sickness. Oh no, the tingling has moved up to my nasal cavity. This sucks!

The worst part of the trail today was the landslip area and the climb from Thorong Phedi to High Camp. Apparently on the 500m length of trail that is very prone to landslides, a rock nearly missed my head. I didn’t see it, but that’s the story JP told after I crossed it.

Before braving the landslides, we were able to power up at a tea house. We drank mint tea and ate chocolate biscuits. Those tea house breaks are essential. It is getting pretty pricey with the altitude gain, but it gives a local family a business and everyone seems to stop at the higher elevation. We ALL NEED the calories and the hydration.

We stopped for lunch at Thorong Phedi after trudging through some pretty deep snow on the trail. We all ate pasta, a cinnamon roll, and garlic toast. It is the last water station before Muktinath on the other side of the pass, so we also filled up all our bottles using our Buy 1 Litre, Get 1 Litre free coupon because it is the most expensive water station on the trail (60rps/Litre).

Sweet…just got a Nepali lesson from the younger guide and found out his name is Gyanu. He wrote the Nepali alphabet in my journal and wrote out some key phrases for us to remember. We also had a great discussion about religion, reincarnation, God, and anthropology.

It’s 7pm! Time to fill our water bottles with hot water (keep us warm at night and for drinking tomorrow) and attempt to go to sleep. We have to get up at about 3:45am to decide if we are going to brave the pass. If everyone else is going, we’ll go with them. It’s better to go over in a group, especially if the snow continues and we need to break a new trail. Oh my…what have we done??

This was our bare bones room at High Camp! Mud walls, one small light bulb, no heat and no indoor plumbing. It was also snowing outside!!

Annapurna Photos

Two hours on the computer and I'm bored of updating my blog already. Plus this is my last day in Nepal before my mom and I fly to Delhi tomorrow to meet my Dad. I best go and live it up here while I still have the chance. So, for all those interested in the life of a trekker, here are a few more photos to entertain you. Stories will have to come later!

Beware: Entering the Landslide area! I guess a rock nearly missed my head. But I never saw it! We all made it through safely, although it was a little scary at times, especially with the trail covered in snow and ice in places!

Thorung La Pass: This photo deserves a huge long blog entry. But here it is. We did make it to the top, but just barely and with lots of help and assitance from other trekkers and guides! Thank God for them! This was the big day---5416m! Never again do I hope to be that high in my life...oh, but it is kind of addicting. Anyone want to climb Mt. Kilamanjaro?

Muktinath: The day after surviving the pass! Do you see the big bags under our eyes? We are standing with our favorite non-guide. He wasn't ours, he was with our Spanish friend. But he stayed with us over the pass and made sure we didn't fall off the mountain or collapse due to AMS. Thank you Gyanu! You are our Annapurna Hero!

Jomsom: After almost a week of rain and snow, the sun finally reappared in Jomsom on our rest day. We had a fabulous view of Nilgiri from the restaurant at our hotel and the rooftop while we were waiting for our stinky laundry to dry.

Annapurna Circuit Day #6

Day 6 Sept 23 Lower Pisang (3250m) - Upper Pisang (3310m)

Rest Day


Last nights movie was a surprise (Die Hard 4) but overall the Maya Hotel in Lower Pisang was disappointing! There was a snotty nosed kid running around that would cry at the drop of a hat. There were lots of other trekkers there but the service was pretty shitty. And the food wasn't that great either. We did get big blankets which was lovely. I was so warm last night. We slept in today until about 7am. It was hard to sleep with the other trekkers packing up and moving on. Most people don't take a rest day this early in the trek, but because we are gaining altitude and JP has a history of AMS...best to take it slow. Plus, our feet and backs are killing us.

A, E & I eventually motivated ourselves to get up and ordered buckwheat pancakes with honey. JP returned from his early morning adventure to Upper Pisang and joined us for breakfast. We decided the Maya wasn't good enough to spend another night at, so we moved up to a little place at the bottom of Upper Pisang. Apparently JP saw Team Israel there (motivation to move perhaps?). So we packed up, loaded our water bottles at the station (8.5L=340rps). It was only about a 15minute walk and barely any elevation gain--perfect! Sure enough, Team Israel was there with a Kiwi we have also been following for a few days. And the night before the Spainards and their guides had stayed here.

But the best part...it has a view of mountains!!! We can see Annapurna IV (or is it II?). It is incredible! So glad we came to this side of the valley. The mountain sits just behind Lower Pisang, so it is impossible to see it. Upper Pisang has a very medieval feel about it. All the houses are built of stone and there are Tibetan prayer flags flying everywhere. After dropping our bags we climbed up through the village to the temple and then a little above it.

We could see the upper trail to Manang and it looks REALLY steep, much stepper than the lower path. But apparently it has amazing views! I think we will take the lower more traveled trail tomorrow. Not sure how much elevation we gained by goin gup but hopefully enough to be better off by sleeping lower tonight. It is so windy, you can hear it come gusting through the dining hall. I'd hate to be here for a major snow storm.

Overall, life is good on the circuit. I'm glad I'm doing it now because it probably won't be here for long. The road is slowly being built. But very slowly. Life is going to change dramatically when that is completed. I'm glad I'm seeing it and doing it now. Not sure I'll be doing things like this when I get older--hopefully, not who knows if the body will survive!

Annapurna Circuit Day #4

Day 4 Sept. 21 Bagarchap (2160m) - Chame (2710m)

7am 12:45pm

14km

Our hotel last night was GREAT! The hot water was REALLY hot. The dal bhat had cauliflower and came with a papad. Plus they had electricity and a light in every room! It made such a difference. We played cards with Team Israel last night while sitting in the dining room. The only girl in the group is actually Russian and knew the Russian game JP and I had played on our volunteer trip with GBT on Lake Baikal. Also, the woman running the place spoke amazing English and had a perfect accent. I think she must have an English speaking boyfriend or something! It was perfect but she said she just picked it up from speaking with the trekkers--yeah right! It was the first place we saw in town and it turned out to be fabulous!

This morning we were up at about 5:30 and left at about 7, later than planned AGAIN!! No idea what takes boys so long in the morning. You would think it would be the girls that are slow...but no, boys are slower in the morning! We filled up our bottles at the water conservation station--anything to save from pumping! For breakfast we enjoyed another delicious meal of porridge. But this time it was a local porridge made from buckwheat. It was really smooth and dark brown in color. We are officially in apple country. We bought two bags of dried apples from the hotel. One for an after dinner snack and one for a trail snack today.

Super bummer...I got my period yesterday! Trekking with your period SUCKS!! But hopefully with all the physical activity it'll be over fast. The cramps are still there though--ouch! Loading up on the ibuprofen. And today...the period runs hit hard on the trail. We had to make an emergency stop after a road construction site. It was emergency poo status! I felt feverish and had goose bumps and chills, it had to come out and fast! We finally found a quiet tree, but had to let a group of pack donkeys pass before I could do my thing! Oh boy, I think that was the most amazing thing EVER! I felt like a new person.

Today was a lot of up and pretty steep in places. But there were also large sections of the trail that they are turning into a road. So there was construction and some landslides to navigate. It was wide and flat where the road has been 'finished'. We booked it when we could on the flat parts and went nice and slow on the uphill. Everyone's feet are sore. The shoulder and hip strap chaffing is getting to be a bit much too!

Right during our break (snickers and dried apple) on the landslide area (no end in sight and needed a pick me up) a man with a deep sore in his leg asked for help. We gave him some wet wipes to clean it out--lots of puss and very infected. Then Evie used a Q-tip and applied antibiotic ointment. We cut some gauze and taped it on. We gave him some band-aids to take with him--we have MANY between the four of us! He seemed happy for the help and will hopefully see a doctor. The leg looked very swollen and infected.

In Koto we stopped for tea and a snack--Tibetan bread with peanut butter. Also stopped to check in at the check-point and bought some applies. The last little push wasn't too long or hard. We walked though the town toward the end and found a great little hotel with private cottages for two. Evie and I had a romantic night in the cottage! It seemed like the place to be. Our Israeli frineds were there. As well as T&C from P-town and our Spanish friends and their guides! Everyone we knew ended up staying here. We picked the right place! It's going to be a party tonight!

This is a pretty big won. There are tourist shops everywhere and a new internet cafe. But it is SO expensive! An hour is about $15. Compare that to $1.50/hour in Kathmandu! We did buy a few postcards but I only know two addresses by heart: my family and Sara's parents. I hope they make it!

One big question that has come up a lot is about the guides and the porters. I would love to know what they think of us--our group of four without either a guide or a porter. Do they resent trekkers like us becfause we aren't paying local people? Or do they respect us because we are carrying our own weight? And what do they talk about at night? What do they really think of all of us trekkers in their country snapping pictures of cute kids and paying an arm & a leg for a coke that someone carried up the trail for 5 days! I want the real story!

Annapurna Circuit Day #1

Day 1 Sept. 18 Bhule Bhule (840m) - Ghermu (1130m)

7am 5pm

13km

I was up just before 6am and we started eating breakfast at 630am. We ate a delicious breakfast of porridge and black tea. The goal was to be on the trail by 7am. We sorta made it, but about 20 minutes out of town Evie realized her tevas were gone from the outside of her bag and walked back to look for them. No luck! They were already long gone. So she bought a used pair of flip-flops for 250rps (62rps=$1US). A total rip-off, but she needed something to wear besides her hiking boots.

Not more than a few minutes after leaving town we had to forge a river. Apparently the monsoon is still going strong and the river is raging. We waded through some high water and on the other side while we were waiting for Evie to return with her new shoes, we tested our water filter. A few hours later and up the trail we made it to Bahundanda. We ripped off our bags at the first restaurant we saw and chowed down on dal bhat for 150rps. Another delicious and well deserved meal. Our first morning of trekking and we were all exhausted...getting used to the weight of our packs, our boots, and walking UP. Maybe we should have stayed there, it was a happening little town. But our book said it was only an hour to a town called Syange. But almost 3 hours later we hadn't yet arrived, so we stopped at the first hotel we found "The Peacefull Hotel". Our rooms were upstairs in a loft/barn like area of the house and there were solar hot showers (for most of us). We ate another meal of dal bhat for 160rps. Hopefully tonight will be an early night and tomorrow will be an EARLY morning. Walking in the heat of the day at this low altitude is a killer. We gotta start out much earlier!! And hopefully no loud rainstorms will pummel the roof like they did last night. Loving the trail and the food so far!

I think we ate two snickers between the four of us today! Only 46 more to keep us going the next 260km!

Lhasa to Kathmandu via The Friendship Hwy

People often ask why it is called "The Friendship Hwy". The simple reason we came up with--if you weren't friends before the trip, you'll be friends after the trip. It is a long, bumpy, harrowing journey aross Tibet, down the Bhote Khosi river gorge and into Nepal. To top it off, we added a side trip to Everest Base Camp, another several hours of some of the world's worst roads at over 4000m. It was a 5 day adventure in a land cruiser I hope never to repeat. I'm glad I did it, but I don't think I would choose to make the trip overland from Tibet to Nepal again. At least not until the road is significantly improved. And in this part of the world...that may not be possible. The road, after it drops off the Tibetan plateau, descends very quickly following the river on a narrow, steep, muddy or rocky road that barely allows one lane of traffic let alone two. This is the major trade route as well as a very popular Land Cruiser overland route. Hence, the traffic is pretty steady and constant from both directions regardless of the road condition.

It all started by putting up little hand-written posters around Lhasa at some of the more popular hotels. JP and I were looking for two others to join our Land Cruiser trip to the border via all the popular stops and possibly Everest Base Camp. Our first response was from a couple from Portland, so we booked the trip and laughed at the odds of meeting someone from the same city/state in Tibet! We probably got 10 more emails of people looking to do the same thing...that's how popular this route is!

We left a few days later with a two Land Cruiser entourage, 2 Australian guys, 2 German girls, 4 Americans, 1 Tibetan 'guide' and 2 Tibetan drivers. The word 'guide' is used loosely because he barely spoke English, couldn't explain much of anything at the places we stopped and was pretty much useless. But he did handle the permit and paperwork for getting us through the checkpoints. And he did intervene when our driver threatened another driver with his sword and then almost ran him over (that story is better told in person). So, I guess he was worth the seat in the vehicle, even if he had horrible taste in music--Bryan Adams!

Each day was long and ardous--hours in the car listening to either driver's choice or plugging in an iPod connection. We stopped everyday at a town/city along the way that had an interesting monastery or temple to keep us occupied for the afternoon/evening. We also found the best Chinese food was in Tibet. We ate huge meals of sauteed vegetables, chicken and peanuts, pork, beef, and tofu dishes. The trip highlight was making it to Everest Base Camp. The real Chinese government base camp is 3km up the road, but we stayed at the tourist base camp with equally good views of Mt. Everest. The mountain was on show for us both days we were there. But as we packed up and drove out of base camp on the second morning, she clouded over and couldn't be seen at all. Our guide said that only 1 in 3 people that visit base camp actually get to see her. And he has spent 3 consecutive days at base camp and never seen even a glimpse. So we considered ourselves very lucky! We stayed in a place called Dhingrui Friendship Hotel. It was 40 yuan a night, regulated by the Chinese government. And only 4 people are allowed to stay in each hotel each night, the government officials come by every night to check and collect our money. But the hotel owners were Tibetan and very very sweet. It was a father daughter team. They kept our tea cups full and at night they tucked us in with many extra blankets and covers to keep us warm. We also ate our meals there, which while very simple were decent considering everything has to be broughtup. There must have been 40-50 similar guest houses--each run by Tibetans, but regulated by the Chinese. The tension is thick everywhere you go. The checkpoint guards hassel the Tibetan guides and drivers, the Tibetan hotel owners in turn build extra big speed bumps for the Chinese officials when they come to town. It is impossible to miss the obvious hatred the Tibetans feel for the Chinese, our guide and driver were constantly making comments...and don't forget there was that incident with the sword too.

I made it to Everest Base Camp (4800m)

Well, this quick little update about the Lhasa-Kathmandu journey has taken me almost 3 hours to write up and upload. So, the Annapurna journey is coming, but slowly slowly. Or as the guides liked to say 'no hurry, chicken curry'.

Mom Arrives in 24 hours

Another chapter of the trip is over and another is starting tomorrow. I just dropped Amy & Evie at the airport an hour ago. It was a bittersweet good-bye. Team ABC-DBT (Annapurna Base Camp-dal bhat thakali) was so deliciously fun and it came with great views too. And Team Annapurna Circuit "Waa Happen?" could never be replicated if we tried. So much fun and so many good laughs that it is sad to say good-bye to it. But I'm pretty sure it won't be our last adventure. They have strict orders to start planning our next adventure on their flight to Bangkok.

Meanwhile, my mom has just boarded a flight to Delhi and will arrive in about 24 hours in Kathmandu. The rafting/relaxation portion of the adventure is about to begin!! Exciting! And to my surprise, I just found out my mom has decided to start a little travel journal....here is the link. Should be interesting to compare mother-daughter notes!

Ann On the Loose in Asia

More on the adventures to be posted soon!

Namaste from Pokhara

We finally made it off the trail again yesterday after walking up to Annapurna Base Camp (7 days). We completed the Annapurna Circuit in about 18 days (4 days rest) and returned to Pokhara because we thought we were DONE with trekking and we were saying good-bye to JP. But after less than 48 hours (and a few massive meals) we were back on the trail and hiking up to A.B.C.. We had A LOT of rain on the circuit so not many views of the mountains but up at base camp we were surrounded 360 degrees by snow-capped Himalayas! Spectacular! More stories and hopefully pictures to be posted soon! Leaving Pokhara for Kathmandu tomorrow via bus--a 7 hour journey!

Namaste!

The Annapurna Circuit

I have been dreaming of coming back to Nepal to hike the Annapurna Circuit since 2003 when I first visited Nepal and discovered the Himalayas! Now I am back in Kathmandu and doing last minute preparations and packing for the 20+ day trek! In two days I will be surrounded by close friends in the Himalayas--my dream come true!

Be back online sometime in mid-October!

Peace!

More from Lhasa

Accute Mountain Syndrome--you never know who it will strike!

Barkhor Square: The Potala Palace is in the upper right corner

A view from the river running through Lhasa

The Potala Kora (pilgrim walk)

I love Lhasa!

We arrived in Lhasa! Look--it's the Potala Palace!!

An artist recreates the palace from the best view point!

Yummy--yak butter! The yak butter tea isn't nearly as bad as I thought it would be!

A view from the train! This is approaching 5000m!

The Banak Shol Hotel! We are traveling 'budget'. Our room is $3/night! And we have a pet rat in the toilets! But the restaurant is fabulous--the best in town!

Beijing Highlights

g Duh...it's the Great Wall! But it is the Secret Great Wall. We were the only tourists there!

Street soup! It was cheap and spicy! And you can take the leftovers home in a bag.

The required picture of Beijing!

But really...let's get out of here!! It's time for Lhasa!

Remembering My Dear Aunt Mary

Yesterday my dear Aunt Mary passed away. She had been struggling with lukemia for a few months. She spent over a month in the hospital until everyone realized her time was limited. Thankfully, she was able to return home for her last day, precious time with family, close friends and her dog. I wish I could have been there to say 'good-bye' properly.

Several days ago, I was able to call the hospital and speak to her as the nurse held the phone up to her ear. I think my messages were heard, I sincerely hope so. I honestly didn't think when I said good-bye last January that it would be final. But that is always the lesson--we have to appreciate the time we have with loved ones.

She has been part of my extended Portland family as long as I can remember. She was at all our birthday parties, every holiday gathering and all our family get togethers. While not my aunt by traditional marriage or by blood, she was nonetheless my aunt. I'm embarrased to admit that it has only been in her final weeks that I called her my "Aunt Mary".

One of my favorite memories: My Aunts Mary & Deb took me on my first camping trip...my cousin and I loaded into the back of their station wagon, the backseat bench was piled high with blankets and open sleeping bags to ensure a more than comfortable ride. We felt like queens! The dogs were in the back along with the tent and all the other gear. We drove along the Clackamas River and found a lovely spot near the river bank. We swam, cooked over the fire and took the dogs for walks. I think it was the next summer that we went back again, and I requested the same camp spot because the first time was so memorable.

She always had questions for me about my travels and life, she always listened and gave advice and support! And she always told us crazy stories and brought laughs to every family gathering.

As my dad, the well-spoken family patriarch, so appropriately wrote:

Mary has been a big part of our family for over 25 years. She is loved as a sister, a friend, a partner, and a very dear aunt. She witnessed and fully participated in all our joys, sorrows, accomplishments, and disappointments. She regaled us with stories and always laughed at our jokes. She cheered us on and helped us when we stumbled. We knew that she was always fully there as a supportive caring member of the family. That energy, love, and life force will be remembered and missed.

She was always the life of a gathering and fully engaged, so stories must abound. Everyone must have a favorite pun of Mary's. She was full of "pun."

Steiner Cabin
Originally uploaded by Sistak

At Timberline
Originally uploaded by Sistak

Eating Christmas Dinner
Originally uploaded by Sistak

I don't have access to great photos with me as I travel...but these are some I took when I was home last winter.

As I walk around Lhasa--I remember her in each temple I pass--how much she would love to see the pictures, hear the stories and want to know about life on the other side of the world.

Mary, you are loved and missed! Please give a big hug to grandma & grandpa and max for me!

Too Many Ghosts in China

I'm not talking abou the kind that say 'boo' on Halloween. I'm talking about the kind that lurk in the far corners of your mind. That remind you of stories you care not to remember. That rehash tales that have been told and played out but not fully resolved. China has too many of these ghosts for me. I see them in the corners of alleys. I smell them coming from the street stalls. I hear them in the endless banter of the people on the streets. And it haunts me. And I'm looking forward to escaping the oppression of the past, my past.

Tonight I will board a train to Tibet.

Sitting by Ugii Lake

Tuesday, August 21st 5:30pm At Ugii Lake

I'm sun burned and wind swept after a full day outside by the lake. Instead of camping in the steppe last night, we decided to drive a little farther and stay two nights at the lake. We had to ditch some monastery ruins tht was on our itinerary because the river was running too high and we couldn't cross it. We had been warned by a local farmer who had tried to cross on his horse but couldn't. But our driver had to see for himself, and indeed, we couldn't cross it. So we gave up and drove to the lake earlier than scheduled for a bit of R&R.

Today I read, walked around, swam and took pictures of a horse drive. A few hundred horses camp through our camp on the way to the UB butchers. But what a beautiful scene to see so many horses running free. Speaking of horses...the local speciality at this time of year is fermented horse milk. It has a little alcohol in it from the fermentation process which involves a goat skin. But it won't get you drunk. It kind of tastes like buttermilk.

Sitting by this little lake, or the ocean, as the locals call it...life is calm! There is a light breeze that threatens to become a strong wind. There are a few ducks diving for fish. The sun is dipping lower and will soon be behind potential rain clods. There is a ger and homestead across the lake from where I sit and where the sun will soon set. I can smell the pasta concoction our cook and guide, Navcha, has created for us tonight. And JP is cooking it while she changes and sings "What a Wonderful World" in her tent. At her request, I wrote down the lyrics for her and she has listened over and over to it on JP's MP3 player. She is so funny!

She told me a story similar to that of the Weeping Camel (a great movie!). If a Mongolian mother doesn't accept her baby immediately, they will put it down on the ground in the way of a herd of horses. Seeing her child in danger she wil want to hold it and care for it. But in reality, the horses will never trample the baby. Never!

Camping in a ger

Monday, August 20th Ger house, Little Gobi

I'm sitting in a ger house near the little gobi, or the end of the gobi and next to a tourist camp. But we are staying at the worker's house. I'm not sure if he gets paid or not, but he got dinner last night and he played cards with us for awhile. His wife is away in another village waiting to give birth. He was so busy with the tourist camp, we had the ger to ourselves, both a blessing and a bit of a dissapointment. It would have been fun to get to know an entire family, but you take what you can get I guess. I slept on this couch/bed that seems to be dedicated to a lama or God. That was a little strange, maybe sacreligious--not sure! But everyone else seemed to think it was ok.

I was worried there wouldn't be enough light in here because there are no windows. But when the sun camp up, he opened up the top and the morning light poured in! When we arrived yesterday afternoon, it was sunny and warm but everyone predicted a thunderstorm was coming, so we asked this guy if we could stay with him. Good thing too...it poured REALLY hard that night! Thunder, lightning and then an amzing starry sky! It was so wide and open and expansive! The milky way was brighter than even at Lake Baikal or our work site in the jungle. At one point we were playing cards and had the door open, which always faces south. The lightning bolts were striking right out in front of us--perfectly framed in the door way!

Leaving Russia

Friday, August 17th 3:10 Naushiki, Russia

We've been sitting here at the border station for over two hours. It is possible it might take another 9 hours--nobody knows. Everyone is just wandering aimlessly, wondering where to go, what to do and when we will get through! And why is this process so inefficient?

We left Irkutsk last night at about 8:45pm after saying good-bye to M, going to Moscow, at about 4pm and then Andrei and Zheniya at 8:10, going to Omsk. We had to say our good-byes to Roma, Julia and Masha from the street, in a quick good-bye. It is better that way. It was sad to see our GBT and Russia experience come to an end. It was two fabulous weeks full of hard labor and hard laughter. There were group bonding games that made me pee my pants, food that filled me to the brim, and endless hours of conversation, story-telling and jokes. There was a week-long killer game. I was killed on day three by a bomb at dinner. Then the second week we had special friends. Everyday we got a little flower bouquet, a candy, a present, or a note! It was fun and always brought a smile to everyone's face knowing someone was secretly sneaking around preparing gifts.

But even without the games and songs, people connected--stereotypes were broken and friendships were forged!