Annapurna Circuit Day #11

Day 11 (Sept 28)

High Camp (4800m) - Thorung La Pass (5416m) - Muktinath (3800m)

14km

5:15am to 9am to 3:30pm

I was so exhausted when we arrived in Muktinath I barely had enough energy to shower and eat dinner (pizza at Bob Marley Hotel). So, I’m writing this on the 29^th after a good nights sleep. Yesterday was one of the hardest things I’ve ever done in my life. The ascent to the pass was miserable. I couldn’t breathe at all. I was gasping and it was so slow going. Plus it had continued snowing the night before and at high camp the trail was covered with about 8inn of new snow.

We woke up at 3:45am and went into the dining hall to confer with others about whether to go or not. Our two favorite guides, Lama and Gyanu, were set on leaving as was T & C’s porter. Other porters and guides were saying that if we waited a day it might be too dangerous so we should go over today or we might get stuck on this side. With all that said and with only mild headaches, we packed up our stuff, put on all our layers and ate our porridge with apple.

For the climb to the pass, I wore almost all the layers I owned. I had 3 layers on my legs: silk long underwear, my quick dry fake Lowe Alpine trekking pants, and my rain paints. On top I wore my two semi-quick dry shirts (long and short sleeve), and my black windproof pullover plus my orange fake windstopper Mamut jacket and my raincoat. It kept me mostly warm and dry. But after 10 hours of snow and rain, we were all a little wet. And even at lower altitude, it continues to pour!

After eating our porridge we were on the trail by 5:15am. The experienced guides went in front to find and make the trail since it was covered in snow. About 20-25 of us set out at the same time. It looked like a big mountain expedition…and we kinda were. Going up to 5416m is no small task. And perhaps sleeping (or laying awake all night) at High Camp wasn’t very wise but it saved us an hour of intense steep climbing. I’m glad we did it the day before and not the morning of the pass. We had enough to think about getting over the trail as it was.

The trail to the pass wasn’t that steep, but with all the snow it was difficult and slippery in places. Plus we had to ascend 600m or about 2,000ft—significant altitude gain when the oxygen is already thin.

Actually, within the first 30 minutes I thought I might have to turn back. I couldn’t catch my breath at all. And I got a side cramp. Gyanu, one of our favorite guides, was super kind and agreed to walk last to make sure we made it up. I’m not sure why he agreed to stay with us but he did. His client, one of the Spanish guys, was at the front of the line making the trail with his ice climbing boots!! So, when I was having problems breathing he waited for me and let others pass. It didn’t take long before I was the last in line. But soon A & E dropped back too. JP was in a groove with a group closer to the front and seemed to be doing well there.

After the mid-point tea break, we didn’t see JP again until the top. And the three of us were struggling to keep the others in sight. A started feeling really sick. I’m not sure if it was the Diamox or AMS, but she lost feeling in her legs. And she tasted blood in her mouth probably from a bloody nose, but we weren’t sure. She was struggling and we were all getting a little scared. Gyanu took her bag and carried it on top of his pack of similar size and weight, doubling the amount he was carrying. But she instantly started to feel better. He also gave her pure glucose which really helped her. It was a lifesaver. But she still didn’t feel good and we were wondering if we should keep going. Luckily, a couple passed that had a GPS unit. They told her it was only another 100m to the top. Therefore, it was much wiser to keep climbing, get over the pass and start descending immediately. The town on the other side (1600m descent) was low enough that AMS symptoms should go away. That gave her and all of us the confidence to get to the top!

A tea break at the top with our Spanish friend, Pablo.

We made it to the top at 9am. I started crying. I was so happy to be up there but I felt horrible for putting all my friends through that. I gave A & E a big hug. It was so frickn’ cold and windy up there we couldn’t stand outside long. But we stood outside long enough to take our bags off and go inside the tea house for a celebratory snickers. But at that altitude I had to force it down. We shared one cup of milk tea for 90 rps. And then we ran outside to take a photo before loading back up and starting the descent.

I’m not sure which was worse for me…the ascent or the descent. Actually, going up was harder because I couldn’t breath. But going down was hard because at first the snow was really deep. And as we started descending, it stopped snowing, but it turned into pouring rain. And it went on for hours and hours. We left the pass after freezing ourselves while attempting some photos at 9:30am. We walked down and down and down. I think a little after 1pm we arrived at a tiny town with a few little restaurants. We ordered mint tea (E’s stomach wasn’t feeling good) and ate our chapattis and boiled eggs we pre-ordered at High Camp. I’m not sure which was worse: walking in the rain and staying mildly warm or resting and letting the wet and cold seep in. Anyway, we needed the break. Only 1-2 hours to Muktinath. But it was the longest 2 hours ever. I think we arrived close to 4pm and it was still raining.

The walk down--cold, wet and exhausted!

As we walked into town we passed the famous Hindu pilgrimage site, the Muktinath Temple Complex. It is famous for its holy spring water that pours out of the earth. Hindus from all over India and the world visit it every year. The poor ones walk in with minimal supplies, sleeping by the side of the road/trail and cooking their meals over a fire. The rich ones fly to Pokhara and then hire a helicopter to fly them into Muktinath. There are two helipads within a few meters of the temple entrance so the wealthy don’t have to strain themselves too much.

After walking passed the temple and into town, we found a few hotels. We decided against the Bob Marley hotel and stayed next door at the Mona Lisa. We got a dorm room with 4 beds for 80 rps, or was it 120 rps? They had a REAL hot shower—it was amazing after the day we had had. They didn’t request we eat all our meals there so we went to the Rasta Restaurant to meet all our Israeli friends. We should have known better, because the general rule on the trail is you eat wherever you sleep. But we were hoping that in this bigger town, we might be exempt from that. Apparently not. After a lovely dinner of pizza, calzones, coke, a heated table, JPs celebratory cigar and apple pie with chocolate pudding, we returned to the Mona Lisa, and a very angry owner. JP dealt with it very politely but sternly.

So after a VERY long day, we were trying to be social and celebratory with our friends but we were really too exhausted to do either. We left the restaurant and returned to be yelled at. We were all in bed well before 8pm totally exhausted. We exchanged some shoulder massages before climbing into our sleeping bags. I think my shoulders hurt worse after the pass than any other day. I think the impact of the downhill slope plus my big pack was too hard on them. Ouch! But JP gave us all a good steamroll before we fell asleep. Nothing like a good steamroll before bed!

Annapurna Circuit Day # 10

Day 10 (Sept. 27) Letdar (4200m) - High Camp (4850m)

7km

8am to 2:30pm

I’m sitting in the dining hall at High Camp with my feet under a heated table drinking hot chocolate. And it is snowing outside. You can’t see anything beyond the few buildings that make up the camp. And it is COLD.

The dining hall is packed with people trying to stay warm and stay out of the snow. We are also all trying to decide if we should attempt the pass tomorrow or wait another day. All of us are braving the extra 100+m altitude gain in the hopes of saving 1-2 hours in getting to the pass in the morning. The last hour to High Camp was hellish—straight up on switch backs in the snow. But I’d rather do it in the afternoon with the light of the sun than at 4am with my headlamp.

Last night in our little guest house in Letdar, we sat around a yak shit stove to warm up. All the guides joined us around the fire and we talked about Nepali ethnic groups and how they can tell each other apart. We stayed at the same guest house as the Spanish guys. Their guides are really funny and super cute! We have been following them since the 2^nd day. They give us lots of great advice about where to go or where to stay. But their Maya Hotel recommendation in Lower Pisang was totally off the mark. The older guide, “Lama” is full of life, is always making jokes and wears a coat that says “HELP” on the back of it. The younger one (still don’t know his name) is a little more quiet and serious but very friendly.

The yak shit warmed us for awhile but then it died down and we got super cold and went to our sleeping bags to warm up. Last night was really chilly and I woke up gasping for air a few times. Amy reported it like I was snorting for air, but I’m sure it was much more dignified than that. Whether you are sleeping, eating, sitting, or walking with an overloaded pack…it is very hard to breath at this altitude.

A & J both had headaches when we arrived so we all took a Diamox—the anti-altitude sickness wonder drug. It is supposed to last 12 hours. So, if the symptoms don’t go away by the time we wake up to depart in the morning, we will know to stay another day or go back down to Thorong Phedi and acclimatize another day. The perfect scenario: we all feel great in the AM and clear sunny skies. Wishful thinking?

Oh shit…the Diamox is starting to set in. My teeth are tingling. And I feel like I’m sinking into the bench. Ugh!! These side effects are worse than altitude sickness. Oh no, the tingling has moved up to my nasal cavity. This sucks!

The worst part of the trail today was the landslip area and the climb from Thorong Phedi to High Camp. Apparently on the 500m length of trail that is very prone to landslides, a rock nearly missed my head. I didn’t see it, but that’s the story JP told after I crossed it.

Before braving the landslides, we were able to power up at a tea house. We drank mint tea and ate chocolate biscuits. Those tea house breaks are essential. It is getting pretty pricey with the altitude gain, but it gives a local family a business and everyone seems to stop at the higher elevation. We ALL NEED the calories and the hydration.

We stopped for lunch at Thorong Phedi after trudging through some pretty deep snow on the trail. We all ate pasta, a cinnamon roll, and garlic toast. It is the last water station before Muktinath on the other side of the pass, so we also filled up all our bottles using our Buy 1 Litre, Get 1 Litre free coupon because it is the most expensive water station on the trail (60rps/Litre).

Sweet…just got a Nepali lesson from the younger guide and found out his name is Gyanu. He wrote the Nepali alphabet in my journal and wrote out some key phrases for us to remember. We also had a great discussion about religion, reincarnation, God, and anthropology.

It’s 7pm! Time to fill our water bottles with hot water (keep us warm at night and for drinking tomorrow) and attempt to go to sleep. We have to get up at about 3:45am to decide if we are going to brave the pass. If everyone else is going, we’ll go with them. It’s better to go over in a group, especially if the snow continues and we need to break a new trail. Oh my…what have we done??

This was our bare bones room at High Camp! Mud walls, one small light bulb, no heat and no indoor plumbing. It was also snowing outside!!